LEJOG

Day 1 Land’s End to St Just

Picture of Nigel Dunk

Nigel Dunk

John o'Groats here we come!!

LEJOG

Distance walked – 9.6km

Total Distance – 9.6km

Sharing horizons that are new to us

Watching the signs along the way

Talking it over, just the two of us

Working together day to day

Carpenters – We’ve Only Just Begun

Ready to set off from Land’s End

It was a momentous and emotional day for us today as the gun finally went off and we set off on our journey from Land’s End to John o’Groats. If all goes to plan, we hope to arrive at the north-eastern most tip of Scotland in 75 days from now, in the process clocking up our longest walk at about 2000km.

We set off from London on the 06:37 train to Penzance, leaving the metropolis as it was just awakening and starting to stir on a cool and clear spring morning. The train journey was a surprising treat, spoiling us with vista after vista of the beautiful landscapes and countryside of the South-West of England. We saw green fields broken up by hedgerows that have changed little since pre-roman times, hidden valleys with little villages clinging to the steep hillsides, and ancient woods where the trees are just starting to spring back into life after winter.

After Exeter, the trainline gave up its most spectacular scenery as it ran along the rIver Ex estuary and then right beside the sea for many miles before turning inland. It then traversed the southern flank of Dartmoor before taking us high above the city of Plymouth, over the river Tamar, along another estuary and then deep into Cornwall.

Five hours after leaving London we arrived in Penzance in the far south-west of Cornwall. An onward journey on a bizarrely open-top double decker bus (weird because it was quite cold and no one wanted to sit outside) delivered us at last to Land’s End at about 13:30 after a circuitous and perilous journey down tiny country lanes with steep banks that were not designed for double decker buses. 

We met our first fellow LEJOGgers on the bus, a couple who are doing the LEJOG in stages over several years and who will start the first week tomorrow after staying at Land’s End overnight. It was great to chat with them and hear about their planning and the stages they were walking. We wished them the best as the bus dropped us in the carpark of the Land’s End Tourist Park.

Chris loves Peter

We were both quite emotional as we adjusted our backpacks and took the traditional selfie in front of the signpost. We were too tight to pay the 15 pounds for a photo so snuck a selfie when no-one was looking. If you look closely at our photo it says “Chris loves Peter”. Presumably Chris was happy to pay the 15 pounds (or was he? or she?)

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South West Coastal path marker

We left the sprawling tourist complex of Land’s End with great relief and set off on the well-defined path along the majestic cliffs that surround Land’s End. It is truly spectacular scenery with rugged narrow inlets that plunge steeply into the sea below surrounded by towering cliffs and headlands. After a few kilometres we descended down some steep steps into the pretty seaside village of Sennen. 

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Heading into Sennen Cove

The sun had come out quite strongly by now and we stopped to shed several layers. There were many people out and about along the seafront enjoying the sunny weather and laid-back atmosphere of Sennen. We spied a group of about 20 surfers all bobbing out beyond the breaks waiting for the perfect wave. “They must be cold” was Louisa’s comment and I heartily agreed with her remembering my only foray into surfing in Cornwall which left me crippled with numb feet unable to walk up the beach from the water and having to resort to crawling while dragging my surfboard in an extremely uncool and painful fashion. 

We continued on the road through Sennen before climbing steeply up out of the village and starting to head around Whitesand Bay. A steep descent then took us down to cross a stream at a footbridge in an idyllic dell where abundant spring flowers flourished.

Descent to Whitesand Bay

Bluebell dell

The path then continued its course around the expanse of Whitesand Bay, staying low just above the beach, affording us views of the many surfers in the waters below. We than climbed slowly our eyes fixed on the enormous headland rising before us.

Looking back towards Sennen

The path gradually became rockier with steep ascents and plunging descents as the headlands we passed around became even more dramatic. At points the path had been diverted to avoid giant landslips where the green earth suddenly gave way to the crashing sea far below. We were really enjoying the scenery and luckily the weather remained sunny with only the lightest of winds making for easy afternoon walking. Several large groups passed us moving in the opposite direction. We greeted them all before continuing on our way.

After one steep ascent we clambered through some giant granite outcrops that suddenly opened allowing a view of the final descent down to Porth Naven where we left the coastal path to follow a footpath towards the Land’s End Youth Hostel, our accommodation for tonight.

The path to the hostel followed a stream up a valley that gradually became narrower and wooded with lush undergrowth and myriad white and blue flowers. It bought us out to a narrow road where around the next corner we spied the sign for the hostel.

Final Path to Hostel

We checked into the hostel and were amazed that we had a room with a beautiful sea-view, looking back down the valley towards Porth Naven (pretty good for 60pounds). It was a great end for our first day on the track. Although it was only an easy short day, we are glad to have got started and feel we are ready now to take on the big 28km day tomorrow.

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Sunset from our room

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Today’s Route

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10 Responses

      1. We need you here for plant identification! We will make good use of you on our day together xxx

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