LEJOG
Distance walked – 27.3km (17miles)
Total Distance – 205.3km (128.3miles)
Bless the weather that brought you to me
Curse the storm that takes you away
John Martyn – Bless the weather
We found the walk easier today and were treated to some wonderful warm spring weather in the afternoon particularly as we arrived into Bude. There were still a lot of ups and downs, but we think we are getting stronger and more used to the walking.
We left the wonderful Boscastle YHA hostel early at about 07:00 and headed past the fascinating looking Museum of Witchcraft and Magic (one for next time) and steeply up out of Boscastle and its well-hidden harbour.
Boscastle Harbour
The weather was beautiful with a clear sky and a few high wispy clouds. It was very cool however, and we had multiple layers on as we tackled the first rise. The morning continued in the recent way of the South West Coastal path with steep ascent and descent as we climbed in and out of the narrow valleys of this part of the coast.
At the bottom of each valley, a stream is crossed that runs into the sea. Usually this is by a footbridge, sometimes by stepping-stones, and in the bigger settlements, by a road bridge.
The South West Coastal path is the longest way-marked trail in the UK at 630 miles in length and runs from Minehead in Somerset along the north Devon Coast, around the entire Cornwall coast to the South Devon coast, before ending in Poole, Dorset. It is well known as being a challenging walk with many days of repetitive ups and downs,
We have met and chatted with several walkers over the past few days who are walking the entire path in a single journey. They have all looked a little worn-out with one of them expressing doubts about completing the entire walk. Having experienced these past few days, I would say that the terrain and paths have been world class, but I wonder if it would get a bit monotonous after a while. We are really, really glad that we have done these sections but are very much looking forward to leaving the path and striking across country from Barnstaple in 5 day’s time, and have no plans to return and complete the rest of the path.
High Cliff
We eventually ascended High Cliff via 25 switchbacks, all counted by Louisa. High Cliff is the tallest cliff in Cornwall at 223 feet (70m), which doesn’t sound that high, but is, when you are standing looking down at the churning sea directly below you. More ups and downs and a sneaky road deviation took us down to the pretty beachside village of Crackington Haven.
Crackington Haven
We have been lucky over the past few days to arrive at cafes for morning tea and today we were spoiled at The Cabin Cafe at Crackington Haven. They make excellent coffee, and we had carrot cake (Nigel), and sausage bap (Louisa). I think we are really going to miss Cornwall when we leave in the next few days. We may struggle to rustle up good coffee in the middle of rural England. . . .
Ahead to Bude (low cliffs on horizon)
As we set off, well-fortified from Crackington Haven, the day became warmer and the sun shone brighter. The ascent out of the village slowly opening up to us a vista of the path ahead of us for the rest of the day, with the cliffs gradually becoming lower past Widemouth beach and on to Bude. Spring surrounded us with every step. We admired one hillside in particular that was covered in primroses on one side and bright yellow gorse on the other.
We had noticed a fairly abrupt change in the geology today as the cliff faces became darker, almost black. The black in turn was shot through with bright white veins of quartz. We also spotted lots of folded rock strata and even a chevron (Louisa’s father was a geography and geology teacher).
Fun with geology
We arrived at the top of another climb to see a young couple who had passed us earlier playing with a cat on the path. They told us that it had appeared from nowhere and kept following them. It had even jumped on their backpack and tried to hitch a lift. We looked around and saw some farmhouses in the distance but not habitations close by. Louisa seemed keen on feline rescue, but I managed to drag her away, and left them puzzling over their new walking companion (we saw them later in the day and they said it followed them for a while and then headed off towards one of the houses).
Feline friendly
At Chipman point we faced the biggest climb up and down yet, with a 250 feet/75m direct up and down, before arriving at Millook Haven where we sat on the stoney beach and had lunch of tortillas, cheese and salad.
Lunch at Millook Haven
After lunch the walking was easier with the cliffs becoming lower and more level. We descended from the high cliffs through a wood where the trees resembled stunted bonsai, twisted and gnarled by the coastal wind. The paths have been slowly drying out after the rain a few days ago, but we still wonder why they always put the gates in the muddiest corner of the field. . . .
Cornish flag
The weather was very warm and sunny (the hottest we have experienced so far), as we passed Widemouth beach. We then opted for the quicker road option down into Bude, our destination for tonight, and the last place we will stay in Cornwall. We arrived tired but happy. Tomorrow, we cross our first county border as we travel into Devon, where we will continue our journey northwards with our last few days on the coastal path.
Accommodation – We stayed at the YHA Boscastle last night in a private room. It was absolutely excellent. It is situated right on the harbour and is better than some of the expensive pubs we have stayed in. There was a communal kitchen and dining area for self-catering. We were a bit tired so got fish and chips and ate them in the dining room.
6 Responses
“We were a bit tired” … Lol! Amazing photos again. Today I had a Cornish pastie from Kenmore Deli for lunch, in honour of your traversal of Cornwall. Unfortunately it was very average. Three stars ⭐⭐⭐.
Love it! Have a cream tea now!
😂
Another wonderful episode. Britain’s wild beauty re-captures my heart every time. There is no equivalent to the contentment you can find in a village coffee shop with a fine hot drink and tasty snack after travelling by foot.
I assume you didn’t need to show proof of age to qualify for the youth hostel 😉.
Great photos again Louisa and I’m sitting here reading your blog Nigel having a coffee and an Anzac biscuit which I made!!!!
We could do with a crate of those Anzac biscuits! xxx