LEJOG
Distance walked – 32.8km (20.5miles)
Total Distance – 1390.1km (868.8miles)
When I walk along some railroad track and find
That you’re moving on the back roads
By the rivers of my memory
And for hours you’re just gentle on my mind
Glen Campbell/Bobbie Gentry – Gentle on my mind
After the whiff of mutiny yesterday, we managed to steady the ship today and arrive safely in harbour without significant event. The day consisted of an initial 11 kilometres along the Tweed Valley Railway Path from Innerleithen to the town of Peebles where we were met by my brother Marcus. He joined us for the final 22km as we followed the delightful Cross Borders Drove Road on a gentle ramble over beautiful Scottish countryside.
Along the rail path
We departed from The Traquair Arms just after 07:00am, unfortunately missing breakfast which didn’t start until 08:00. Our room was very comfortable, although Louisa described it as being “aggressively Scottish”. (It had Tartan bedspread, cushions and curtains and giant thistles on the wallpaper). We felt much refreshed after yesterday’s travails and were looking forward to an easier day of walking.
We joined the Tweed Valley Railway Path just down the road from the hotel at the site of the old Innerleithen train station (sadly closed in 1962) and were soon heading towards Peebles.
Louisa and Nigel?
The old railway line follows the Tweed River upstream with gentle, picturesque hills rising on either side. The weather was warm already despite the overcast skies and intermittent spots of rain and we were soon shedding layers. Unusually for Scotland, we have been forecast hot and sunny weather for the next few days. Hopefully not as hot as yesterday which I think was a major factor in the difficulties we encountered. After all this is a country that allegedly has 100 different words or phrases to describe rain!
New Pedestrian Bridge
We crossed the river before entering the modern village of Cardrona where we walked past well kept houses arranged around a village green. After a brief section through a golf course, the rail path passed through a really pretty area of community woodland, where volunteers are regenerating a native wood.
Pebble of Peeble
The railway path ended on the outskirts of Peebles, from where we followed a road into town. We passed the White Stone of Peebles, a white quartz glacial erratic, that has traditionally marked the spot where visitors are welcomed to the town. We considered ourselves welcomed, Louisa referring to it as “the Peebles pebble”.
Out with the old, in with the new
We were soon joined by my brother Marcus who lives in Edinburgh and will be walking with us for the next two days. He very kindly had brought my new pair of shoes which I had ordered several days ago. My current pair, which I purchased back in Bristol had no tread remaining and were definitely in need of exchange (I have walked over 900kms in them!). I have stuck with the Salomon Speedcross 6 GTX as I have found them to be a really comfortable shoe but have upgraded to a flash blue colour. They will hopefully see me through to the end of our walk.
Peebles
Peebles is a distinguished, attractive town with many grand old buildings and interesting shops lining the High Street. Apparently, it is the town in Scotland with the largest range of independent shops and second in the UK after Hebden Bridge (which we have also been to on our LEJOG). Another place we will have to come back and visit.
Above Peebles
We crossed the river again and headed out of town. For the rest of the day, we walked on the Cross Borders Drove Road, which is an 82km long distance walking path that follows an old droving route which was used for centuries to drove cattle to markets south of the border. We are using it to head northwest to the village of West Linton from where we can strike out for Edinburgh tomorrow.
It was a really lovely route. We were soon up in the hills above Peebles where the easy to follow path traversed several small hills.
Forestry Plantation
We slowly dropped down to enter a large forestry plantation. It is always strange walking through these unnatural plantations as they are dark with an absence of wildlife, like being in a sterile alien place after the vibrancy and life of the open countryside. I find them unnerving and was much relieved when we eventually exited back to the open hillsides.
Fingland Burn Valley
The highlight of the day was the secret valley of Fingland Burn, the path following the burn upwards between the hills of Drum Maw and Hag Law.
Arriving a day late in West Linton
By this time the sun was fully out and following a pleasant lunch, the afternoon was a gentle meandering route that eventually delivered us to the village of West Linton. As we walked into the village, it became apparent that we were arriving on the day after the final day of its annual festival. The festival called the Whipman Play, is one of the oldest festivals in the Borders and as far as I can ascertain involves the following. A local man is elected to the office of Whipman. He then appoints a Whipman’s lass to assist him. These two represent the village for the rest of the year. Their installation is followed by a week of celebration, dancing, riding of horses, and culminates in an annual sports day on the village green.
The sports day was yesterday, so we arrived at the village pub to find a ‘day after the night before’ vibe. They were all very friendly, however, I suspect everyone was very hungover. This did not prevent us from being served a great dinner, by the end of which the bar was heaving and it seemed that everyone from the village was present. Tired from our walk, we made our excuses and retired to bed. . . . . .
