LEJOG
Distance walked – 28km (17.5miles)
Total Distance – 1302.3km (813.9miles)
It’s good to be on the trail
From where my heart set sail
It’s good to be on the road back home again
Cornershop – Road Back Home Again
Today was our first of two days on St Cuthbert’s Way as we journey westward across the Scottish Border country. St Cuthbert’s Way is a 100km long distance path that runs from Melrose in the Scottish Borders (our destination tomorrow) to Lindisfarne (Holy Island) off the coast of North Northumberland. It is named after the 7th century saint, a native of the borders, who started his career at Melrose Abbey and was buried on Holy Island.
It was a day of gentle walking, a marked contrast to the recent ups and downs of the Pennine Way. It made us realise how hard the last few weeks have been – it was good to be back on the easy road.
St Cuthbert’s Way Marker Symbol
We stayed at the marvellous Millhouse B and B last night. After a geographically appropriate breakfast of scrambled eggs and Scottish smoked salmon we set off, farewelled by the friendly proprietress. A short streamside walk out of the village then lead us to some easy farmland walking and a quiet lane.
Up Crookedshaws Hill
The lane eventually started rising and we soon left it to strike uphill over Crookedshaws Hill, the start of our only significant ascent of the day. Views soon developed back over the valley of Kirk Yetholm and beyond to the Cheviots. It struck us that this little climb, to cross a foothill of the Cheviots, was like one last attempt by the Pennine Way to break us. It did not. We reached the top!
View and Sign at Wideopen Hill
That high point, the wonderfully named Wideopen Hill, gave great views north over flat farming country. There was also a sign to inform us that it is the highest point of St Cuthbert’s Way. That was easy!
Easy descent
A gentle descent over some farmland took us to a quiet lane that led into the village of Morebattle. By this time we had been passed by a steady stream of walkers (10-12), travelling in the other direction. Many of them stopped to talk and we were surprised at how many of them were North Americans. It is obviously a popular walk with them. We love talking to Americans and always find them so friendly and genuine. We also love the way that they always tell you where they are from by stating City and State ie Boston, Massachusetts, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, Denver City, Colorado as if we might mistake their Denver City for another one somewhere else in the world. It is all done however with such a lack of cynicism that it is lovely.
Colourful Verge
The road verge was a riot of colour with purples, whites, yellow and greens. It was like being transported back to a few weeks ago in England. Spring/Summer definitely comes later her in the North.
Sourhope?, Cocklawfoot? or . . .
. . . Teapot St
The small village of Morebattle had a wonderful community shop where we stopped for coffee and cake (Chelsea buns) and also to buy some lunch provisions. We sat out the back at a picnic table in the sun while we watched a steady stream of walkers come in and out of the premises. It’s great that this walk is so popular and obviously very good financially for the villages along the route.
The odd names continue
Unfortunately, there was quite a lot of road walking after Morebattle, something that mercifully there was very little of on the Pennine Way. Luckily there was only sporadic traffic and we soon got onto some even quieter lanes.
Cessford Castle
The long road walk took us past the atmospheric ruined 15th century Cessford Castle. We decided to stop here for lunch, sitting on the grass, surrounded by sheep, in the lee of this 600-year-old structure, thinking how little this landscape had changed in that time. Then a noisy ASDA van drove past . . .
Woodland walking
The walking after lunch was fairly average with lots of walking along field edges some of which were quite overgrown. The only highlights were two sections through mature woodland, including one section through a hidden strip of native trees that was really special.
Into Jedburgh
St Cuthbert’s Way does not actually go through Jedburgh, so we turned off on to The Border Abbeys Way for a further 4 km stroll into Jedburgh. This was mainly along a really pretty county lane before turning to follow a riverside path into the town.
Oldest pub in Scotland. (Tell that to all the other oldest pubs)
We are staying in The Spread Eagle hotel tonight. We had planned to camp but have decided instead to treat ourselves for the next few nights as we are feeling pretty tired after 19 days without a rest day. The town is a very solid striking place with a ruined 12th century abbey and many historic buildings. I had a quick look around whilst buying some dinner provisions and then retired to the room, promising to return some day. For now, however, it is onwards to Edinburgh. . . . . . .
