LEJOG
Distance walked – 24.2km (15.1miles)
Total Distance – 998.2km (623.9miles)
Be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems
Kate Bush – Running up that Hill (Deal with God)
We had a restful night in the camping pod – basically an upmarket garden shed with 2 beds (we used our own sleeping bags), lights, heating and some power points. It was definitely more comfortable than camping though, only slightly more expensive, and we got full use of the self-catering kitchen and amenities inside the YHA, so we think it was money well spent. We are booked into a few more of these in the days ahead and think they are going to make a good alternative to camping every night.
The first part of the day was a gentle, well-worn path out of Malham, following Malham Beck, on the approach to the geological marvel that is Malham Cove. We have been here several times before (including the first time when Louisa packed for the seaside, thinking it must be on the coast!), but still felt awed by the grandeur of the scenery. Seventy metres tall at its highest point, it would have had a waterfall flowing over it at the end of the ice-age that was taller than Niagra Falls.
We spent some time wondering around the base of the cove enjoying being the only people here (it is usually a mass of people). We spotted the adventurous path around one of the middle layers which we have walked previously, before beginning the climb up to the top of the cove.
We gained height quickly and looking back we could soon see the winding white ribbon of chalky path snaking back to Malham, contrasted against the brilliant green of the fields.
We emerged on to the top of the cove, which is an other-worldly landscape of limestone pavement (an exposed area of incised limestone that resembles an artificial pavement). It famously features in one of the Harry Potter movies in scenes were Harry and Hermione set up camp in a tent on the pavement. I personally wouldn’t choose to erect a tent here as the surface is extremely rough and uneven – but what do us Muggles know?
We stumbled over the pavement for a while (it is quite difficult to walk on) before finding the onward route which traverses the pavement before heading sharply north up a narrow valley.
The path was rough and stony as it followed a dry stone wall up through a narrow gap. The difficult terrain was proving testing and slow going. We were glad that we had set off early as we still had a long day ahead with several steep climbs to conquer.
The day was much cooler than the last few days had been and the cloud cover was becoming heavier. I was quite jealous of Louisa’s new waterproof adventure smock which she had purchased during our recent rest days in the Peak District. A well as being bright red, it has multiple zips and flaps for ventilation which is quite useful when climbing these steep ascents.
The path at the top of the valley swung to the right and followed a gorge beneath another towering cliff. We both agreed that the Pennine Way continues to deliver great landscapes and scenery.
We eventually came out beside Malham Tarn after crossing a road and carpark. Apart from a few campervans that had obviously been parked up overnight, the area was still otherwise deserted, and we were enjoying the tranquillity and solitude of an area that is normally teeming with walkers.
We walked around the tarn, and entered an area of mature woodland that surrounded the National Trust owned Malham Tarn House, which is run as a nature field centre.
From the woodland we continued over fields, past several farms and farm buildings to cross a road and turn to the northeast. Looming above us was the giant mass of Fountain’s Fell, which we now started to ascend, as we passed the final farm at Tennant’s Gill and headed into the rough moorland. Multiple signs warned us of straying from the path due to old mine workings and what are labelled on the OS map as ‘shake holes’. We certainly didn’t want to fall victim to a ‘shake hole’, nor tumble headfirst into a mineshaft, as depicted on the sign, so we maintained vigilance in keeping on the path.
After reaching the top of Fountain’s Fell (650m), which is the highest point on the PW so far (but not on our LEJOG), we both agreed that this would be a moderately difficult stand-alone day walk. However, when it is a day walk sandwiched between 70 other day walks, the difficulty rating becomes much harder. (For purists out there, the path doesn’t actually go to the technical top of Fountain’s Fell as the summit is surrounded by mine shafts. You have to be content with two cairns below the summit, that nonetheless have great views.)
We stopped to talk briefly to a European couple who had camped out overnight at the top and who were having a late breakfast, before setting off on our descent. Soon the dramatic profile of Pen-y-Ghent, our next ascent, dominated the view across the valley. We decided to stop for an early lunch as we were out of the wind on this side of the mountain. As we sat eating our lunch, the young French lady who we had met on the summit went past. She was bouncing from stone to stone in a balletic fashion, as she descended quickly and gracefully. She paused momentarily and turned to us. “Bon Appetit” she cried before disappearing around a bend in elegant style.
After lunch we both set off with a cry of “Bon Appetit” as we attempted to imitate the style of our continental friend. Alas our heavy backpacks and fifty-plus year old bodies precluded us from successful mimicry. . .
We instead resorted to our normal plodding (which has served us well so far) and descended from Fountain’s Fell and then traversed the valley below Pen-y-Ghent, mainly on the road. It has been amazing how little road walking there has been on the Pennine Way so far – long may it continue.
As we approached Pen-y-Ghent we could see a continuous stream of people ascending the rugged southern edge of the mountain. We had unfortunately timed our arrival to a day when the Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge is on. The Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge is a popular charity event that involves summiting and walking between three peaks in this area, one of which is Pen-y-Ghent. The route is 38.6km (24miles) and has to be completed in under 12 hours.
We joined the throng of people on the steep stony path. The route eventually became an easy scramble. We were quite surprised how difficult some people were making it look. We passed lots of people despite our full backpacks. Perhaps we are fitter than we realise after all this walking.
We reached the top easily but did not linger as it was the busiest summit we have visited for a long time. To be fair though, it was wonderful to see so many people enjoying the outdoors and raising money for charity.
The views from the top were great and the descent, though steep was relatively short. We were grateful as we were quite tired and foot sore again.
The last part of the day was a long gentle descent down from the foothills into the village of Horton in Ribblesdale along a stony lane. The day had warmed up, and we stopped to buy cold drinks at the only shop in the village, which was doing a roaring trade. We then found the campsite which was also packed with people who had just finished the Challenge. Despite the number of people, we easily found a nice level grassy spot. A surprisingly good meal at the local pub followed before an early exhausted fall into our tent. The Pennine Way gives but it also takes.
