LEJOG
Distance walked – 40.8km (25.5miles)
Total Distance – 677.7km (423.6miles)
I’m on the edge of glory
And I’m hanging on a moment with you
Lady Gaga – Edge of Glory
We had been nervously anticipating today as we knew it was going to be our longest day yet with an anticipated length of 38km (24miles). It turned out, however, to be one of our best days so far, with an amazing variety of scenery and terrain, and the best of British spring weather. We encountered rivers, gorges, ancient woodland, historic towns, and industrial heritage sites. The centre-point of the day was the 30km (18mile) traverse of Wenlock Edge, a limestone escarpment and geological wonder of Britain, during which we barely crossed a road.
We started the day early, leaving the still deserted town of Craven Arms (does anyone live there?) at 06:00. The first few kilometres of the day followed the river out of town and across some perfunctory fields to the village of Strefford, where we were given a cheery ‘good morning’ by some early rising tea drinkers in their immaculately kept garden.
Here the fun started, as a muddy trail took us steeply uphill onto the start of the escarpment of Wenlock Edge. The top of the escarpment is relatively level at a height of about 240m, so the walking from here on was easy as the path hugged the edge, a steep drop immediately to our left. This initial section of the edge is covered in a variety of woodland and was constantly alive with verdant spring colour and abundant birdlife. We heard quite a few woodpeckers in the distance, their drumming beat echoing through the trees.
At points the wood thinned and changed in nature, but never opened up completely. The views remained as tantalising glimpses of the flat land far below. There were many paths along the edge and a confusing number of signages. At one stage we chose the wrong path (Nigel), which took us far down the steep edge of the escarpment before we realised our mistake (Louisa). Rather than retrace our steps (Nigel), we decided to climb directly up the thickly wooded bank to regain the top (Louisa). Much swearing (Nigel), heaving, and sweating (both of us) ensued before we were back on the correct path, determined to avoid further navigational embarrassment (both of us).
At one stage the path swapped to the edge of fields which abutted the steep drop of the escarpment. The rapeseed crops are in full bloom at the moment, and we walked along the edges of several vivid yellow fields.
Eventually the path dropped down to a well-formed track on an old train line where the walking was fast and easy. We stopped for our first break, Louisa consuming a packet of Monster Munch (pickled onion flavour). I have always been puzzled by this particular savoury snack and its popularity in the UK. Trying it again, my puzzlement remained. . . .
The old trainline eventually terminated at a road, the first significant one we had encountered for over 20km on the edge. A short walk along it, took us back to the very top of the edge, which had now changed to a narrow limestone ridge with expansive views on both sides. We walked past large limestone quarries before a lane took us down to the town of Much Wenlock.
We found a lovely cafe in the town centre where we had lunch and cake. We had already completed 30km by this stage and were pretty tired, but realising we still had at least 8km still to go, we shouldered our packs and left the bustling town behind. (Regrettably we were unable to look in the Ecclesiastical Shop which curiously sold church vestments and robes).
The afternoon weather was the best of glorious late spring weather, the sun shining brightly and the rural landscape was alive with colour. It was unfortunately lost on us as we laboured, ever more tired and footsore, over fields, through hidden hamlets and past ram shackled farms.
We somehow arrived at Ironbridge Gorge, high above the River Severn, before descending down to the river and the famous bridge (mud following us to the end). The whole area is a UNESCO world heritage site and is widely regarded as the birthplace of the industrial revolution. We were sadly uninterested in the bridge and the heritage (we have been here before) as we realised at 38km that we still had 2km to go.
We made our way through the bustling crowds of tourists who were enjoying the warm sunny afternoon weather and made our way down river. Luckily the riverside path was flat and easy going. We passed several pubs with large beer gardens that tempted us like a siren’s call, but we continued on in Homeric fashion. Finally we crossed the last footbridge and arrived at The Shakespeare Inn where we will be spending tonight. Another great day completed.
2 Responses
Can’t wait to get home from work each day and read your blog. Got a laugh from the pronouns used on your little side trip.
So lovely to think of you following our journey! Loving seeing all your running on Strava x