LEJOG
Distance walked – 38km (23.8miles)
Total Distance – 383.7km (293.8miles)
We’re on the road to nowhere
Come on inside
Taking that ride to nowhere
We’ll take that ride
Talking Heads – Road to Nowhere
Today was a really tough day that nearly broke us. We decided last night to stay for breakfast at the pub, as we had looked at the route and although it was long, the afternoon seemed to look relatively straightforward. How wrong we were. . . .
The late breakfast meant it was nine o’clock before we set off from the Valiant Soldier. We set off brightly but missed the first turn and spent some time trying to find the right path, and admiring the pretty red stone cottages of Roadwater. (Watching out for a psycho killer rabbit as well).
We climbed steeply out of Roadwater, on a quiet road and then a footpath over fields. As we reached the top, a glorious view came into sight, as the Quantocks, a range of hills came into view ahead of us. We will cross them today before descending into Bridgewater.
The path then took us down into Nettlecombe past ancient trees and hillsides covered in spring flowers and through the ancient churchyard.
From Nettlecombe we followed a pretty track along a stream before arriving in the village of Monksilver. It was a day of stiles, which are very difficult to navigate with a backpack and walking poles. Some are more difficult than others . . .
As we set off from Monksilver, the Quantocks loomed closer above us. We have never been here before or even heard of the Quantocks, but it is a beautiful corner of Somerset.
We crossed the valley, slowly climbing, over the tracks of the Somerset Tourist Steam Railway, (we heard it but didn’t see it), before eventually reaching the little heaven of Bicknoller village. By this time the sun was shining brightly and it was quite warm, so we stopped at the village store for coffee and a Chelsea bun which we ate at a picnic table surrounded by the beautifully manicured gardens and blossoming apple trees. (Louisa enjoyed the local apple juice)
As we set off the day continued to improve, such that it was my first t-shirt only day!! We climbed up Bicknoller Combe, the initial steep valley gradually opening up as we gained height. The woodland slowly gave way to sparser, hardier trees, until the tree line was passed and we gained the open moor at the top.
We saw several groups of mountain bikers and a lone walker, but otherwise had the solitude of the moors to ourselves. We followed a ridgeline along the top, enjoying the spectacular wilderness experience, so close to some of the UK’s biggest towns.
As we reached the end of the ridge, we encountered a group of wild horses with a new born foal. We stood for a while admiring them – they were completely disinterested.
We exited the Quantocks down a long and ancient drove road, lined with dry stone walls and stately trees. This road ran for many kilometres, mainly in a downwards direction. We stopped at 19km for lunch, where we sat in the sun, enjoying the warm weather.
Unfortunately, from here it was all downhill and not only in the physical sense. We took no further photos because the walk descended into a Herculean task of getting to Bridgewater. Low points included a route that was almost impossible to follow, footpaths that disappeared or were deliberately obscured, nettles and vegetation up to our chests as we passed around field edges, walking for a kilometre in a drainage ditch full of a slurry of ankle-deep mud, a dangerous road walk along a busy road with no verge, and the endless journey across a flood plain into Bridgewater.
At one point we followed a foot path into a farmyard, and after much puzzling, chose a route, to have a farmer come out of his house screaming and threatening us as we had gone the wrong way. HIs angry hand-drawn sign as to the correct direction was obscured behind his tractor.
Things didn’t improve as we reached the outskirts of Bridgewater and realised it was the kind of town that you probably didn’t want to visit, let alone spend a night in. We achieved the peak low of the day as we tried to change our mud caked shoes outside the hotel, sitting in the gutter, as the bench was occupied by the local meth addicts.
Luckily, our hotel, the Tudor Inn, was a sanctuary with a kindly night porter, who took us in despite our dubious smell and feral appearance. A day with a great first half and a terrible second half. Tomorrow can only be better.
Accommodation – We stayed last night at the Valiant Soldier Pub in Roadwater. It is a great local pub with newly refurbished rooms. The food was excellent, and the publican a really nice guy. Highly recommended.
6 Responses
It’s not much fun getting yelled at as trespassers. I’ve had one similar experience, I was left quite unsettled. I hope day 16 was a big improvement (I just have to wait for the report!) PS don’t forget to update your cool day counter! 🙂
He was the poshest farmer I’ve ever met. It was like being yelled at by the lord of the manor!
You are indeed valiant and hope tomorrow brings an easier walk.💕
Thak you darling Roxanne. We’re riding the ups and downs xxx
So sorry to read about a hard day! Glad things are looking up now, very proud of you both xx
Well behind us now, onwards and upwards!