LEJOG
Distance walked – 33.2km (20.7miles)
Total Distance – 345.7km (216miles)
For singing till his heaven fills
‘Tis love of earth that he instlls
George Meredith/Ralph Vaughn Williams – The Lark Ascending
What a fantastic day we just had. We had the joy of walking with old friends Clare and Steven on a wonderful sunny spring day over some of the best terrain we have covered. It was a day when the sun kept shining and we were so appreciative of the company as we chalked up another 33 kilometres.
We left Simonsbath and the brilliant Exmoor Forest Inn (more below) after breakfast, and immediately headed up onto the moors via a steep road and then path. There was grey cloud with mist still hanging to the moors as we reached the ridge line along the top. The going was much easier today with less bog and a well defined trail.
We soon came upon a group of wild Exmor ponies who were most disinterested in us. As we walked the weather seemed to rapidly clear, the sun broke through, and an amazing vista opened up around us. We crossed several commons and by the time we reached Exmoor Common, the sky was clear and blue. It was here, we unfortunately became geographically embarrassed and lost the path on the thick heather clad hillside. We had to beat a track across the moor to where we knew there was a road, eventually finding it and returning to the route.
We heard several cuckoos around us as we followed the undulating path in the brilliant sunshine. The going was good but long, and as we approached Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor at 519m, we all decided to take the shorter path down and skip the summit, having been there before and knowing we had limited time to reach the pub for lunch.
From this point the path started to descend and we farewelled Exmoor having enjoyed our short visit. The journey down was superlative, as we passed through gorgeous green valleys and followed a stream through woodland. The warm weather had already started to dry out the mud making the going so much easier than the day before. The trees were nearly all in leaf and there were flowers and blossom everywhere. We were following a long-distance path called The Coleridge Way which was well signed and represented by two feathers on the frequent posts.
It turned out to be much further than thought to the pub at Wheddon Cross, and there was a lot more up than we had planned on (might need to look at the map closer). We arrived at 13:54, only six minutes before closing. Clare and Louisa rushed to the bar where they were luckily able to order some lunch. The pub was called The Rest and be Thankful, and we certainly did and were. Our sandwiches arrived a few minutes later (followed by the chef scurrying out the back door), and we enjoyed them sat in the brilliant sunshine.
Our guidebook said that the route after lunch over the Brendon Hills wasn’t as dramatic as the morning route. How wrong he was. We climbed up and over meadows covered in wild flowers, with amazing views over the Bristol Channel to Wales. It was such a clear day we could see for miles. Today was the best weather we have had by a long shot and the type of beautiful spring day that only occurs in England. We spotted numerous skylarks as the hillside was crossed.
(We were intrigued by the name of the Brendon Hills. Apparently it is from the old english Brune Dun or a brown hill. )
The rest of the day was a long descent to some pretty villages before a final ascent and descent through some forestry land. We arrived at Roadwater village, tired but happy, and grateful to Steven and Clare our guest walkers for the day.
Accommodation – We stayed at the Exmoor Forest Inn last night. It is the best place we have stayed so far. It has been recently refurbished to a high standard and does great food. It is everything you could want from a country inn.
2 Responses
Exmoor Forest Inn added to my bucket list.
Britain can be dour in the wet, cold winter days particularly in suburbia, but when Spring ‘springs’ in the countryside, it shines like a diamond 💎
You’re so right – we’ve had some wonderful spring days of late.