LEJOG
Distance walked -30.4 km (19miles)
Total Distance – 144.4km (90.3miles)
In the early morning rain with a dollar in my hand
With an aching in my heart and my pockets full of sand
I’m a long way from home Lord, I miss my loved ones so
In the early morning rain with no place to go
Elvis – Early morning rain
View back to Mawgan Porth
We left Mawgan Porth under a cold grey leaden sky this morning. A few spots of rain intermittently fell, a gentle breeze blew as we climbed up out of the village passing a number of new ‘James Bond villain’ type modern houses perched on the cliff edges.
Bedruthan Steps
Our first destination along the cliffs was Bedruthan Steps. This is an area of dramatic rugged coastline with some giant rock stacks. The eponymous steps are a series of steep steps that lead down to a beach. They are unfortunately closed following a major landslip in 2020.
We had visited here once before when we spent a week in Cornwall in August 1999 to observe the total solar eclipse that occurred that year. We never saw the sun being obscured due to heavy cloud cover on the day itself, but we did witness and experience the accompanying unsettling phenomena of a total solar eclipse.
As the minute approached for the start of the eclipse, we saw a band of black rushing towards us across the ocean. It soon engulfed us, and as it did the world became quiet and we were plunged into a night-time gloom. The birds instantly became quiet and the many dogs in the enormous crowd lay down and started to whimper gently. The temperature plummeted and a cold shiver went over the assembled people. It was eerie and very unsettling. We worried how long it would last. In a very short time, however, a band of bright light, the reverse of early could be seen racing towards us over the sea in front of the Bedruthan Steps. As it reached us normality was resumed (ie cold grey Cornwall summer day)
Coffee and hounds
We left the Bedruthan Steps and headed around the cliffs eventually descending into Porthcothan with its pretty beach. The Porthcothan Bay Store was right on the path so we stopped for coffee and cake. There were several dog walkers there including an older couple, (quite eccentric), with their two dachshunds, one in a trolley after suffering nerve injury to his legs. We have been amazed at how many dogs are around in the UK now. Everywhere we have gone there have been many dogs, probably more noticeable as well, as they are allowed inside in the UK compared to Australia where this is rarely the case. We farewelled the Dachsies and ascended up another headland.
Stepping Stones at Treyarnon Beach
We have to confess that we are suffering from a bit of cliff fatigue today after six days on the coastal path. There’s only so many jaw droppingly beautiful vistas that you can take in at one time, so we decided instead to head inland and cut off a big chunk of coastal walking. This is the first time we have had to navigate a route as the coastal path is very well signed and easy to follow without a map.
Field walking
We left the coastal path at the village of Treyarnon and travelled by a mix of quiet country lanes and field paths. It was very similar to the type of walking we used to do when we lived in Leicestershire.
The recent rain had turned the ploughed fields into quagmires so we squelched and slipped as we wound our way. The fields were separated by large stone stiles which were tricky to negotiate with muddy feet. We are happy to say that we found our way without incident.
Mud
We stopped for lunch on a sheltered bench in the village of Trevone. It was then disaster struck. The olives had leaked in our lunch bag and our emergency grazing platter was reduced to only cheese, hummus and pittas. We stoically carried on, finished our lunch and headed off for the famous village of Padstow.
Pretty Padstow
Padstow, or Rick Stein World as we now call it, is truly the picture-perfect English fishing village with its beautiful coloured cottages and stone harbour surrounded by shops.
Rick Stein World
We didn’t see the man himself but his presence looms large over the village with restaurants, a fish and chip shop, a deli, a fishmongers, butchers, holiday rentals, a cooking school, and probably some other things we didn’t see. To be fair, I really like his cooking shows but have difficulty watching them now after once reading a humorous review painting him as the Alan Patridge of the celebrity chefs.
From Padstow, the coastal path takes a ferry across the River Camel to Rock. As ferries are not allowed on this trip (no transport allowed apart from walking) we instead headed inland to the town of Wadebridge via the Camel Trail which is a cycle/walking path constructed on a disused rail line.
Camel Trail
We joined the many families and couples enjoying a Sunday afternoon ride on the trail (we were walking obviously). Today was the first day that we have started to suffer from sore feet and this last 8km along the bitumin tarmac was quite hard work. We had to stop on several occasions to fortify ourselves with fizzy cola bottles.
Wadebridge
After some hard foot slogging we arrived in Wadebridge, named after its famous 15th century bridge. We crossed the bridge and headed up the hill out of town. Due to poor planning on my part we had booked a hotel at the top of a very steep hill, one kilometre out of town (it was a very reasonable price). Tired, but happy we checked in, entertaining the staff with our crazy tale of walking to John o’Groats (they say they get a couple of people a year making the journey – once on a tandem), and collapsed in our room.
Our route today
4 Responses
No ferries! Is swimming acceptable?
Apparently yes, but you’d have to float your pack according to the Boy!
I love the daily selection of lyrics, today especially and can not imagine a disaster more unfortunate than the olives leaking from your emergency grazing kit!!
How did you survive?
It was quite awful – nearly had to call the whole adventure off!!