LEJOG
Distance walked – 33.9km (21.2miles)
Total Distance – 1108.7km (692.9miles)
Slow down, you move too fast
You got to make the morning last
Just kicking down the cobblestones
Looking for fun and feeling groovy
Simon and Garfunkel – 59th Street Bridge Song
Today was another amazing day on the Pennine Way. It was long and hard, but we were rewarded with a triad of waterfalls and one of the best kept secret spots in the UK. Despite heading in the wrong direction for most of the day (SW), this was one of the best days walking on our LEJOG so far.
We left Middleton under another cold grey sky. The path took us alongside the river Tees, sometimes close, sometimes wandering away from the river, crossing over the edges of traditional hay meadows alive with a riot of flowering colour. Purple, white and every shade of green were on display brightening the otherwise dull morning. The noise of the wide rushing river was our constant companion. The path was easy to follow as we slowly moved up stream, the only downside being the large number of stiles, always difficult to negotiate with backpack and walking poles.
Wynch Bridge
The scenery of the river valley was dramatic with moorland rising above cliff edges, high above the meadows. The river narrowed as we reached Wynch Bridge, the oldest chain suspension bridge in the country (only one person permitted at a time!). Shortly after which we arrived at Low Force, our first waterfall of the day. (The name Force is from the viking fosse meaning a waterfall, and although Low Fosse and High Fosse sound quite romantic, they are simply viking for Little Waterfall and Big Waterfall).
Low Force
We have been here before on a family holiday when it was teeming with people, so it was lovely to have the place to ourselves this morning. Despite the recent absence of rain, the waterfall was flowing with great power.
High Force
We continued up river, eventually passing into a juniper woodland. We could hear the roar of rushing water and as we exited from the trees we caught sight of the even bigger High Force. Although it isn’t the highest waterfall in Britain, it is the most powerful (largest volume of water when in spate). We spent some time admiring this awe-inspiring natural wonder. Beautiful and frightening in equal measures.
Don’t be a Sheep?
After High Force, the path continued to follow the river as it widened, flowing over level floodplains. To one side, moorland rose above steep cliffs, while on the other, isolated whitewashed farm buildings dotted the gentle rolling hills.
Along the River Tees
We crossed the river twice over bridges, passing several farms before turning southeast to follow the river bank into a narrow valley. The weather had slowly worsened, the grey clouds getting heavier and the temperature falling. This added to the sense of lonely isolation we felt in this deserted valley.
Boulder Hopping
The riverside path deteriorated into rock hopping over several large boulder fields. Scree slopes and foreboding grey crags rose sharply above us. Our progress was slow as we tried to pick the best route over the large stones.
Cauldron Snout
A final bend in the river revealed the third waterfall of the day, the wonderfully named Cauldron Snout where the River Tees rushes through a narrow gully. I cannot think of a better name for a waterfall. Compared to Australia, where we live, where so many of the non-indigenous names are the very definition of poor naming (ie Snowy Mountains, Sandy Desert), these ancient names are wonderful. So far today we have walked under the cliffs of Falcon Clints, traversed Widdybank Fell and Cronkley Pasture, and are about to skirt the edge of Great Cocklake!
We climbed up beside the waterfall over roughly hewn steps, pausing every few moments to admire the raw power of the torrent of water.
Top of the Waterfall
From the top of the waterfall, we joined a road which crossed the river below a reservoir before heading up onto the moors. The road turned into a stoney path which climbed slowly for many kilometres over the bleak moorland.
Onto the Moors
We reached an ill-defined high point of 590m before dropping down to follow a stream, eventually crossing it via a sturdy footbridge. The Pennine Way here skirts very close to a very large live firing military range. Luckily there were no tanks on manoeuvres today but there were frequent signs warning of danger.
Approaching High Cup Nick
Crossing the level green turf of High Cup Plain brought us to the highlight of the day, the dramatic geological formation that is High Cup Nick. Despite living and travelling extensively in the UK for over 20 years, we had never heard of this place, yet it is without doubt the best U-shaped glaciated valley in the British Isles, and one of the most amazing vistas in the country. The view down the chasm continues over the Vale of Eden and across into the Lake District.
High Cup Nick
We spent some time enjoying the view before slowly descending along one edge of the High Cup. After leaving High Cup Nick, the path wound down over grassy slopes heading towards the village of Dufton, with the conical peak of Dufton Pike lying to the right of our path.
Dufton Pike (and Running Man)
During the descent we were passed by ‘Running Man’ as we have christened him. He stopped to talk to us for a few moments. He is running the whole of the Pennine Way and like us is staying at Dufton tonight. We chatted for a few moments about the walk before he farewelled us and ran off into the distance.
Hobbit Hole
We are staying in a Hobbit Hole tonight at the Grandie Caravan Park. These are brand new camping huts that have beds, electricity and heating. The owner was lovely, and they even supply a porridge pot for breakfast! (There is a camping field as well, but we were glad to be paying a bit extra and sleeping in a comfortable bed tonight)
Dinner Venue
We had dinner at The Stag Inn which we can highly recommend. Running Man was there, and he introduced us to a fellow JOGLEer (John o’Groats to Lands End). It was interesting to talk to her and hear her thoughts on the way ahead, particularly the John o’Groats trail, which is a new trail, still being developed, which we have heard mixed things about. (She said that some of it is quite rough and very close to dangerous cliff edges, and that we might have to bypass some of it on the road). We pondered this before deciding that it is all a problem for future Louisa and Nigel. We wished her well on her onward journey. Current Louisa and Nigel then retired to their Hobbit Hole to dream of the road that goes ever on. . . . .
